Rosehip oil, the new elixir of youth

The name Rosehip derives from the Spanish language, indicating certain wild rose plants with fruit.

 

The main species of roses used for oil extraction are R. moschata, R. rubiginosa, and R. canina, known in English as Rosehip, which is widespread in South America, where it grows wild in humid and cold environments.

 

To obtain the precious oil, the process begins with the manual collection of the drupes in early spring, which are then dried at controlled temperatures to separate the seeds from the pulp. The seeds are then dried and cold-pressed to preserve the active principles as much as possible. The method of extraction (hot, cold, or with solvents) can significantly affect the chemical composition of the vegetable oil, causing changes in its properties.

 

The oil obtained from the cold-pressing of the seeds of the floral species has anti-aging cosmetic properties and is used for its astringent and refreshing characteristics in case of scars, burns, redness, stretch marks, dark circles, and fragile hair, as it is rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids (important components of cell membranes), as well as various antioxidants such as:

– Vitamin E: helps cells to be more robust,

– Squalene: emollient and antioxidant properties,

– Vitamin K: contributes to normal blood clotting and can have positive effects in case of couperose and redness,

– Retinol: the active form of Vitamin A, with firming qualities and stimulating cellular repair.

 

Composed of essential polyunsaturated fatty acids such as:

 

– Linoleic acid: 41%, not synthesized by our body, it becomes part of the composition of ceramides (rebuilding epidermal lipids and promoting the cohesion of skin cells, as well as useful in limiting water loss from the skin, keeping it hydrated),

– Linolenic acid: 39%, trans-retinoic acid, isomer of Vitamin A, and concentrations of natural antioxidants such as Vitamin E, carotenoids, and phytosterols, which have cell renewal function.

 

Essential substances for the synthesis of prostaglandins, which are involved in the regeneration processes of membranes and cutaneous tissues, thanks to the presence of trans-retinoic acid, enhancing the integrity, efficiency, and natural immunity of cells.

 

These fatty acids present in the oil provide freshness and hydration to the skin, softening it, providing nourishment, and enriching it with smoothing and regenerating properties.

 

It is a semi-liquid viscous vegetable oil of dark orange color, excellent if certified organic, used pure or mixed with essential oils, such as:

 

– Lemon essential oil: increases anti-wrinkle and regenerating properties,

– Essential oils of Lavender, Helichrysum, Rosemary, and Sage: help to counteract scars and burns; as well as those of Mandarin and Jasmine.

 

It is important to differentiate between Rosehip oil and Rosehip oil as they are obtained from two different species (Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa) with similar properties and uses but extracted from different seeds with different properties.

 

Rosehip oil can also be found in the form of edible pearls for internal use, useful for providing essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, protecting the cardiovascular and cerebral systems.

 

It is important to store the oil in a suitable dark container and away from heat sources as it can undergo oxidation, which makes it ineffective. Avoid application before sun exposure, and if used excessively on the skin, it can be comedogenic and promote the formation of blackheads.

 

Rosehip oil is a skin ally, especially for dry, cracked, or mature skin in need of elasticity and firmness, as it has cosmetic-dermatological effects on skin regeneration and is an essential element for cellular renewal processes, and for this reason, it is defined, not surprisingly, as the elixir of youth.

 

 

GABRIELE DALLO

Doctor in Food Technologies